A croquembouche, it seems, isn’t a croquembouche at all, but one could stand tall and proud in the corner of your wedding venue.
However, back in good ol’ Grande Bretagne, ask your wedding cake supplier for a croquembouche and you will get exactly you expect: a cone or pyramid of choux buns, with a light crunch on the outside, soft in the middle and filled with a delicious cream known as ‘crème patissier’ or, in less confusing parlance, pastry cream.
Wrapped in a fine thread of spun sugar or drizzled with chocolate, whatever it’s called, it’s a classic that every pastry chef knows to be a standard for anyone taking him or herself seriously.
19th Century French cookbooks mentioned a croque-en-bouche – something that “crunches in the mouth” – but these were only ever savoury, and the term doesn’t appear to have made it into the 20th Century on that side of the Channel.
The croquembouche is no less popular at weddings in France compared to the UK, and no less popular than it was in the 19th Century, yet it quickly became known as a ‘Piece Montee’, which, you guessed it, is a general French term for ‘Wedding Cake’.